Gods, tombs and the splendour of Ancient Egypt: archaeological sensations around Memphis
South-east of Cairo lies the imposing heritage of the Old Kingdom of Egypt (2700 – 2200 BC). Memphis was once its capital. Legend has it that under the supervision of the god Ptah, patron deity of craftsmen, the first settlements were established here in 3000 BC. As flooding from the Nile frequently destroyed buildings, the urban area moved with each rebuilding, so that today the sights are spread over a vast area.
The colossal statue of Ramesses II.
10 metres tall and weighing 80 tonnes – if this colossal statue of a reclining Ramesses II (13th century BC) didn't have such proportions, it would likely not still be at its discovery site. Italian explorer Giovanni Battista Caviglia excavated it in 1820. Today, this icon of Ancient Egypt is protected by its own hall, serving as the centrepiece of the open-air museum in Mit Rahina, as Memphis is now known.
Eternal protection: the Alabaster Sphinx
A sphinx, formed of a lion's body with a human head – the perfect symbiosis of wisdom and strength – is meant to protect sacred sites. Carved from a single block, the Sphinx of Memphis, likely carved during the 18th Dynasty, was dedicated to this task. Although significantly smaller than its famous “relative” in Giza, it is also more intricate in its craft.
God’s house: the Temple of Ptah
The theology of Memphis, as the capital of Ancient Egypt, designates a triad of gods as rulers over the city: alongside Ptah and the war goddess Sekhmet, Nefertem completed this group as the god of beauty. Regrettably, only ruins and scattered stone blocks remain of the massive Ptah Temple. Nevertheless, you can still feel the scale and the religious and political significance of the site.
Saqqara's Realm of the Dead
Just a 20-minute drive from Mit Rahina, on the west bank of the Nile – the “side of the dead” – lies the expansive site of the Saqqara Necropolis. Here, visitors can view pyramids, sarcophagi, murals and intricately designed tombs. The area, regarded as a “stone history book of Egyptian culture”, is still far from being fully excavated. The findings of recent excavations are continuously being presented.
The Step Pyramid of Djoser
Here, around 2650 BC, the first monumental stone structure was erected: a pyramid over 60 metres high at the centre of a 15-hectare complex built to honour the dead. In the surrounding area of the structure, many adjoining buildings are non-functional – essentially dummy structures so that the deceased ruler could navigate a familiar environment. As a result, only one of the 14 gates is real. Beneath the pyramid, at a depth of 28 metres, lies a system of burial chambers and tunnels.
Ancient comics in the Tomb of Mereruka
Even the entrance to this magnificent building with 32 rooms – including spaces for his wife and son – makes it clear that a distinguished figure of Ancient Egypt is being honoured here. Mereruka, who lived around 2350 BC, held the rank of vizier, just one step below the Pharaoh. His “house for eternity” is adorned with detailed wall reliefs depicting agricultural scenes, brewers, bakers, and fishing.
A clever solution: the Pyramid of Dahshur
Just over a half-hour drive south of Saqqara, where it is far less crowded than in Giza, you can trace the evolution of pyramid history. In Dahshur, the transition from the step pyramid to smooth outer surfaces becomes visible, along with advances in structural engineering. The famous Bent Pyramid illustrates how the angle was adjusted during construction to prevent imminent collapse.
Model structure: the Red Pyramid
A “perfect pyramid”, which served as a model for Giza, is also located in Dahshur. The presumed burial site of Pharaoh Sneferu (who lived around 2600 BC) owes its name to the reddish limestone, which was originally covered by a layer of bright white limestone. The inner vault, featuring chambers 15 metres high, is accessible via a long, narrow passage.
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